This is our blog chronicling the building and racing of our ChumpCar.
Sunday, February 21, 2010
Build Day 2/20
Shiny new radiator is now installed. I bought a new accessory belt, but got the woring size. This should be running again shortly!
Cold air intake. I opened up the intake box and with no headlight here, this should feed lots of cold air into the engine. This must be good for +50hp!
Cold air intake close up.
Intake as it orignally appeared with a large resonator.
Intake tube with resonator hole plugged. This should add +20hp, right?
Dash is out.
In case you couldn't see it in the last photo. this is the dash wire harness mess.
We decided to take the doors off to aid with the cage building and stripping them out.
The dash is out, drivers side.
Greg lounging in the back seat.
More work on the bender kills a chopsaw
Also showing up on Wednesday was the die set! Thank you UPS!
Then Thursday night, Caz and Matt finished up milling the big parts and turning down the bushings. Hopefully the lead content in the 12L14 steel gives our shafts some nice lubrication. GD that sounds dirty. Sorry.
Sunday, February 14, 2010
Budget suspension mods
First, the SC400 shares the same suspension design as the MkIV Supra. It has upper and lower control arms and shocks, not Macpherson Struts like most other modern cars. The front and rear springs are both 5" diameter, although the front springs taper to fit into the upper control arm. The rears appear to be straight.
I managed to find a pair of used front shocks and springs on eBay for $10 which I bought to experiment with, and then bought a bunch of used circle track springs also on eBay for $7 to $12 each. Turns out 5" diameter is a common size.
Stock front springs, 368 lbs per inch:
Stock rear springs, 154 lbs per inch:
Front shocks with circle track springs:
Close up of the springs:
On the left is the stock spring. It's about 12.5" uncompressed. About 11" of that is at 5" diameter. In the center is the stock shock with the circle track spring. Notice it's a bit shorter, 9.5" overall. On the right is the stock spring and shock together.
The taper on the stock spring need to be there to fit into the upper control arm, and since the spring is a little short, and adapter will be needed. I've got a few ideas on how to solve this such as: a solid machined piece or a threaded piece and huge nut to create adjustable coil-overs. I'm not sure what we'll do, but I can continue experimenting on these parts off of the car.
Based on what the stock front corner weights should be (975 lbs), the stock spring should be about 9.9" compressed. The circle track spring is shorter, but this one is 650 lbs per inch, and I have some up to 1100 lbs per inch. At 650 lbs per inch, the spring will be compressed to about 8". If you add a 1.75" adapter (to fit inside the control arm), it would sit at about the same height as stock. I've also got a pair of 800 lbs per inch springs that would sit higher, so they may need to be cut to fit.
To keep this cheap, the front springs might be usable on the back as well. That would significantly increase the rear spring rate without adding too many dollars to the car. This would go from 368/154 to 650/368 or 800/368. Seems reasonable.
In the end, adjustable stiff springs will keep the car from diving too much or leaning too hard in the corners, and it should handle better. And the greatest part is that instead of used Supra springs or a used lowering kit to keep in budget, once this is done, we can swap out spring rates to tune the car even better. Too bad we need to continue to use used shocks. That's crap can racing for you!
Just in case anybody is interested in seeing the front shock assembly disassembled, here it is. On top, from left to right, is the destroyed boot, bump stop that we'll probably need to cut, and top shock mount. In the center is the front shock, and at the bottom is the front spring:
Starting the bender
From Frank at Takac's Cycles In the never ending quest for more tools, I decided to build my own tubing bender. Having looked around and seen how expensive buying one was, I luckily stumbled upon Frank's site and plans for his bender at Takacs Cycles. So I ordered up the plans, and contemplated how to drill all the required holes for the upright and swingarm. Luckily through Danielle and Soren, we befriended Caz and the crew at Caztek. And Caz offered the use of their shop to help the team. So we could use the band saw to easily cut through the 5/8" and 1/2" thick plate. Like buttah...
They even let me make make a mess on the layout table. But I did clean it up.
Sunday, February 7, 2010
More pics from the last build day
Here's the box of parts we pulled to shed another 10lbs.
Like Soren said, hopefully we didn't take out any we need, because as you can see below, it gets a wee bit confusing. But the engine and ABS modules are still there, so that's all we should need, right?
Here's a picture of the new belt routing that Soren mentioned. With taking out the AC compressor, and bypassing the location for the hydraulic fan pump, we'll need a shorter belt, but should still have sufficient wrap on all the needed pulley's and accessory drives. Time to mark it, measure it and head to the parts store.
Had to show this grossness also. Mixing hydraulic fluid, coolant and oil looks a bit strange. I bet it'll kill some grass in the backyard too...
And one final picture, an action shot of Soren approaching ludris speed. As you can see, he hasn't quite gone plaid yet.
Next up, the big bending weekend in about a month. Gotta finish making the bender from the plans I got from Takacs Cycles. Should get a post together on how that goes once the steel shows up. Until then...
Build Day - The seat is here
It does look like a Gurney bump may be required to make sure nobody's helmet rubs the ceiling. This should be pretty easy since we need to fill in the hole vacated by the sunroof. How many horsepower will this racing feature add? 20? 30?
We also put some tape up to simulate a cross style door bar. That will make getting into and out of the car a little more challenging, but a cross type door bar looks a lot better than the traditional parallel style. We also need to look at a removable steering wheel although the car has, seriously, electric tilt wheel, so when we remove the motor perhaps we can modify it to tilt up out of the way a little?
We also got the hydraulic pump for the fan taken apart so that we could reinstall the housing and put the belts back together. We need to fit a smaller accessory belt on the car, bypassing the AC and hydraulic pump that we removed, but the belt routing will work really well. The cooler for the hydraulic system will be reused, probably as an oil cooler or a bigger power steering pump. Yeah for free parts!
We also pulled another 10 lbs out the car as well with a few hopefully unneeded computers: Air bag controller, cooling fan controller, keyless entry receiver, etc. The airbag controller was about 4 lbs by itself! We're up to about 450 lbs pulled from the car.
Overall a good day. The next major project is the cage. Tubing it on order and we should be building it in about a month.